Monday 29 December 2008

(ge-) Hannes in Africa

for english posts please scroll down.



Zo nu weer 's wat in het Nederlands,we zijn nu 4100 km onderweg en nog nooit heb ik zoveel verschillende soorten wegdek gezien,asfalt in alle kleuren,stenen,gravel en stukken van 50 km met alleen maar gaten!!!Dit lijkt een soort video spelletje met 1 strafpunt als je door een gat rijdt,en als bonus een lekke band.

Het mooie van door afrika rijden is ,dat er van alles gebeurt onderweg dus je hoeft je nooit te vervelen,onze snelheid ligt zo rond de 80km/h zodat je nog wat kan zien en kan reageren op dingen die komen gaan, zoals een overstekende koe,een auto met pech,een voetganger die plotseling oversteekt of een aap die de weg op springt.De Scramblers doen het super maar hebben wel te lijden onder de afrikaanse omstandigheden met wat kleine schades die we zelf konden verhelpen, een kapot koplampglas,kromme versnellingspook en een afgebroken remhandle zijn eigenlijk kleine dingen,het verbruik is ook super zo een op twintig en we hebben onze reserve jerry-can dan ook nog niet gebruikt.

Het overnachten gaat ons ook super af en komen altijd wel weer een plek tegen bv. bij mensen thuis,hotel,b&b,of een backpackers hotel en altijd wat te lullen.

Onze baarden groeien ook lekker door en ik hoop de de doaune me nog herkent op de foto.

Verder gaat alles super ,vandaag een snippermiddag lekker aan het strand gelegen en weer een beetje bijkomen,morgen gaan we weer verder met nog 8 dagen te gaan,ongeveer 3000km.

Geniet met wat je aan het doen bent, prettige dagen en tot horens,

Hans en JW

Into Mozambique

We had breakfast with Mike and Paddy in the beautiful lodge they manage. The views over "the Berg" are breathtaking and Mike started a nice business printing the pictures he takes on canvas and selling these to tourists.

After breakfast we rode to Ladysmith. At the filler station loud music was playing. "Ladysmith Black Mambazo". They come from here, the pump attendant proudly said. I told him I saw them some 20 years ago in the Carre theater in Amsterdam.

From there we followed the N11 north, via Volksrust to Amersfoort. At the entrance of the village the was proud sign saying Amersfoort 100 years. Well in 1990 that was. I don't think anything happened since.
From Amersfoort to Ermelo. This was quite an adventure as a sign said "road closed". Our GPS couldn't quickly work out an alternative, so we guessed our Scramblers wouldn't have problems getting through. I turned out they were rebuilding the road, so it wasn't too difficult at all. Some stretches there was only half a lane and they would only allow traffic in one direction, but that wasn't a problem for us.
In Ermelo Hans wanted to eat at Wimpy's. Some people stopped to look at our bikes. They must be very old they said, 40 years or so, but nicely fixed up! They couldn't believe it when we said we picked them up less than a week ago.

The road from Ermelo via Badplaats and Barberton to Nelspruit was unbelievable again. Smooth tarmac and fantastic views, a bikers dream.

In Nelspruit we stayed at the City Lodge. We had drink by the side of the pool and chatted with a guy from Swaziland. It turned out he studied in Arusha in 1990 and had lot's of stories to tell when we enjoyed some ice cold Grolsch beer. The best laugh he had was when he saw the sign Msasani (where I live in Dar), which means vagina in Swati (his language).

Next morning we went briefly to the hughe shopping mall (mainly to buy clean underwear) and continued our journey into Mozambique.

Crossing the border was surprisingly easy. We we stopped we were immediately attacked by touts ("free lance immigration consultants") offering their service to get us through. We aggreed on $10 each. They helped us fill all the forms, jumped all the queues for us and got us through in less than 20 minutes. That was $20 well spent!

From the border it waqs just over an hour on the toll road into Maputo. We looked afround a bit, had a soda at the waterfront and had a talk with a Dutch farmer that moved here 10 years ago and straight away invited us to his farm 150km up north. We decided to give that a miss and pushed on to Xai-Xai. Maputo is just another big city and wasn't too appealing to us.

On the road up north we saw hundreds of south african cars. Mostly 4x4 and pulling off-road trailors, hughe fishing boats, quad bikes etc. They like their toys!

We found a place to stay at Praia do Xai-Xai after driving on very soft (beach) sand for 4km. Left and right we were overtaken by quad bikes (so this is where the south africans all went).
The next morning we left early again. The first 85 km were pretty bad patch tarmac, but from there the road was OK again. They must have had lots of rain, because everywere there were ridges of sand on the road which you have to handle carefully. Some 20km before Massinga a part of the road had washed away and they were afraid the rest would collapse too. So all traffic was stopped. Truck drivers were alread preparing to spending the night on the road. Some cars found a diversion through the bush (a 5km detour) which we also took. Hard work through mud and and soft sand.
In Massinga we thought of calling it day, so we turned off to Morrungulo, not realizing that we had to fight through another 13km of red clay. The ultimate test for the Scramblers and us.







Morrungulo turned out to be another South African outdoor-camping-holiday spot. The sea water temperature was nice (refreshing) after this long day of riding.

We got up at six again. The 13km of mud had mostly dried up now so it wasn't too bad to get back to the main road. This main road on the other hand had turned into something like Swiss cheese. For 50 kilometers you really had to concentrate on the road (no time to watch the scenery). The small potholes became big ones. The big potholes became craters and the all of the sudden there was this brand new road. The last 100km to Vilanculos was done in no time an this is we are now. Time to relax a bit, update the blog and get our laundry done.

Friday 26 December 2008

Updated travel log

The plane landed in Cape Town at 13:55. We hopped in a taxi and went straight to the Triumph dealer. Kevin Swanson, one of the owners, welcomed us. Are you from Dar? Do you know Andrew Stanley? Of course I do. Well, he's staying with me tomorrow. What a small world. He called Andfrew on the phone, “Guess who is here?”. Well Andrew was at Chris Keeping's (another friend I know from Dar) house in Port Beafort and Chris asked us to come and visit.Meanwhile Hans and the mechanics were fitting the racks on the bike and I started mounting GPS.Just before 4 the bikes were ready, paperwork sorted, lugged on the back and off we went.
We first rode to Cape Point, which actually is in a really nice nature reserve. A beautiful ride. Also a good test for the GPS, as the Chapman's Peak drive was closed so it had to find an alternative route for us (and did well).When we returned to Cape Town to check into the Hotel we've done our first 200km.Next was dinner, We took a taxi to Church street where Senait Mekonnen, who used to run Addis in Dar, now has a beautiful new restaurant: Addis in Cape. The food was delicious and it was very nice to have a chat with Senait,
The City Lodge at the Waterfront is a very nice hotel and the location couldn't be better. After an enormous breakfast we set off for Cape Agulhas. We took the coastal route via Strand an Betty's Bay to Hermanus for our first stop. We tried to catch Andrew there, but he was still in Bredasdorp. So we continued our journey via Gansbaai and Die Dam to hit our first gravel road. The Scramblers handle the gravel very well and on these perfectly graded road we can do 80km/hour easily.
Next was Cape Agulhas, the Southern most point of Africa. We took the bike right to the sign, for a good picture. Back on the gravel road at Kars Rivier to Malagas where we took a hand operated ferry across the Breede Rivier. Originally we planned to stay at the Malagas Hotel, but the river flooded the hotel recently (6m above it's normal level!), so the hotel was closed. From there we continued to Port Beafort where we were welcomed by the Keeping family. They used to live in Dar es Salaam, but moved back to SA a few years ago. We spent a very pleasant evening there and Chris prepared a delicious 'braai' for dinner. Next morning we took there daughters around the block and the moved on, again on gravel, via Gouritzmond to Bochums Bay where the Aunt and Uncle of Els have there holiday home. We had a coffee there and continued our journey, on tarmac again, to Knysna where we were planning to have lunch. Once we reached Knysna, dark clouds were brewing up and we though we better stay ahead of the weather. So we quickly pushed on to Plettenberg Bay. Just before reaching Plett the rain started. We found shelter at Alan and Delai's place (cousins of Els) and were offered lunch there. We hoped for the weather to improve, but it didn't. So it was time to test our rain gear. All the way to Jeffrey's Bay we had rain. But the rain gear held well, and when we reached Jeffreys Bay, the sun started shining again.Jeffrey's Bay is a popular holiday spot and is well know for it's surf. It also has a great choice of restaurants and we had a delicious dinner there. We stayed at the, somewhat old fashioned, Savoy Hotel, and the bikes were safely parked in the back yard.We set off early again next morning and soon reached Port Elisabeth. I showed Hans the place I used to live at 7 Havelock street and continued for the long haul to East London. This time it was the N2 and we did 120km/h all the way. At 15:00 we reached Buffalo Motors where our bikes would have their first service. They directed us to a fancy bed and breakfast and we agreed to bring the bikes at 7:30 next morning. Tired of the long ride we went to bed early.
Next morning the bikes were service, washed and polished and looked new again. At 10:00 we hit the road again, to Port St. Johns in the Transkei. Biking doesn't get better than this, beautiful scenery, smooth tarmac, nice long curves and hardly any traffic. By 2:30 we got to the Jungle Monkey Backpackers where we will crash on a dorm bed tonight.Enjoying the good food and music here it is nice to have 'an afternoon off'.It's Christmas Eve and soon we will start singing our Christmas Carols.
Well, the Christmas Carols didn't really happen. Hans and I were the only ones keen, the rest of the crowd was more in to R&B and Hip Hop. Shame because we were planning to sing the typical Dutch song 'Vrouw Haverkamp'.
The party went on to well past our bed time, but surprisingly enough all the bar staff was already active when we got up at 7. Or didn't the bar close?
The winding road out of Port St' Johns was a nice one again. Good tarmac but one has to be careful as there are lots of animals on the road (cows, goats, dogs, donkeys and even horses).
Around Kokstad we wanted some coffee. On the GPS searched for a restaurant. It indicated a Steak Ranch just 10k outside town. So we followed it's instructions. At some stage it wanted us to turn of a tiny dirt road. No sign of restaurant whatsoever. This can't be right. Hans wanted to turn around, but we still deiced to go. And after a kilometer there was this beautiful little resort. They seemed to be as surprised as we were but offered us coffee and cake, at no charge. Typical South African hospitality!
From there we went to Underberg and Himeville and up the Sani Pass. The road got really bad with rocks and boulders. The scenery was beautiful though. At the bottom of the pass we turned around and the dirt road to Nottingham road. Quite a bit better than the the Sani pass road, still quite few rocks, so we really had to concentrate hard for 60km and averaged around 50km/hour. I din't envy the two cyclists on what we call in Dutch 'ligfietsen' (don't know the English word, you sit in a reclining position) who we saw half way this road with another 30km to go.But besides the road condition, this was probably the most beautiful stretch I ever rode. Amazing views of the Drakensberg throughout.
Another hour on tarmac and the we got to Champagne Castle where Mike and Paddy Behr live. I always used to stay at their B&B in Durban, but some three years ago they moved here. Again we experienced South African hospitality at its best. We were invited to stay at their place (the best hotel so far as Hans calls it) and were taken for a great Christmas Dinner.

Friday 19 December 2008

The Idea


Wouldn't it be nice to ride bike from Cape Town to the North Cape. What kind of bike? A Triumph of course.
Well, maybe a bit too much for one Christmas Holiday, so we decided to split it up in three parts. And this is part one. Cape town to Dar es Salaam. Part two will be Dar es Salaam to Cairo and the last part will be from Cairo to the North Cape.




On the 18th of December Hans arrived in Dar es Salaam from where we will fly to Cape Town on Saturday where the bikes will be ready for collection. The bike of our choice is a Triumph Scrambler. And not just because it looks good. The simplicity of these bikes make them ideal for this trip. These ones still have carburettors, so will work well with all fuel we will find on the way. The upright sitting position is nice for long distances. Fuel burn is also good (20km to the litre).

The engine has a great torque which allows you to negiotiate difficult terrain in first gear without having to use the clutch. Cruising in fift gear is comfortable at any speed between 80 and 120 km/h.